Peregrino Solitario (Day 23)
Today’s hike was to Astorga. It was fairly easy and we passed through some nice villages, fields and even some orchards along the way. Nothing especially exciting happened although I was sore as hell from the walk yesterday. It’s interesting, while my body seems to be getting stronger (today notwithstanding) I’m having a much more challenging time waking up in the morning. Once I get moving I’m great and ready for the day but those first fifteen minutes or so are kind of a shit show. Before this trip I don’t think I had actually heard my alarm for two or three months. I routinely woke up before it went off and got going. Those days are apparently gone as of a week ago and I hear that noisy bastard every morning now. I suppose I’m getting a little worn down overall at this stage but I’ve only got ten days left so I will just keep chugging along.
That’s Astorga in the background and I was glad to see it.
More fields along the way. These aren’t really interesting pictures but they kind of show you what I spent much of my day staring at while the Proclaimers sang in my head.
The horde descends on an unsuspecting village. Beware baristas, we’re coming.
I thought since it was a pretty uneventful day that I would discuss a question I was asked by a gentlemen from Holland yesterday and one that has been discussed with me a few times on this journey. Would you recommend that people do their camino alone? It’s a great question. My answer isn’t as great. I would say, it depends. There are a number of benefits and drawbacks to doing this kind of extended walk solo. Also keep in mind this is my first time doing this and I’ve not done it with a partner or group. The following are just my thoughts based on my personal experiences and observations and also based on conversations with other pilgrims. Basically, don’t blame me if you use anything I write to make a decision. Honestly, look at me - if I’m your basis for making an important decision like this then you’re a fool. I once tied up the safety flap on the back of our lawnmower so it wouldn’t bog down in our long grass and then promptly ran over a tennis ball that was fired back at about 80 miles per hour directly into my crotch leaving me lying on the lawn for a half hour writhing in pain. That’s the person you’re taking advice from. Fair warning.
Benefits
You are the master of your own destiny. The captain of your own ship. The Luke Skywalker of your own X-wing. You get my meaning. Your day is yours in its entirety. You decide when to leave. You decide what to eat. You decide where to stay (if you aren’t booking in advance, otherwise you are R2D2 and your booking company is Luke). You don’t have to worry about another person when it comes to the day and there is something freeing about that.
You can walk at your pace. I know this doesn’t seem like much and maybe it’s just me but if I’m walking with others I try to adjust to their pace. If their pace is much quicker that can make for a tiring day. If it’s slower it can become frustrating. This trip is simply a crap ton of walking so being able to do that at a comfortable pace would seem important to me.
You can have many hours for contemplation or just to zone out. I know that some walkers (especially those in comfortable relationships) can still get this alone time. There are loooong periods of silence when walking and you’ll see couples separate and spend time apart on the trail. But being alone makes it much easier to just break off and be with yourself. I think that the silent reflection has been a huge part of this walk for me and it was easy to achieve solo.
You don’t have to be alone much of the time. There are many other people around and you’ll form relationships with them as time moves forward. I’ve had many more days walking with people than alone and I’ve shared many more meals than I’ve taken solo. The “camino family” that is formed after a few days is a very real thing. I was lucky, mine was formed almost immediately but I know at least 20 people on a friendly basis at this point so it’s not hard to have company if you want it.
Drawbacks
You are the captain of your own ship. The lead actor in the play of your life (mine would be called, “I Wear Plaid To Hide The Peanut Butter Stains, the Glenn Crim Story”), etc, etc. Basically you have to make all of the decisions. This isn’t a huge deal but sometimes it’s nice to be able to say, “I don’t know, when do you want to leave?”.
You will get lonely. It’s an interesting situation to be surrounded by people but still feel alone. The camino family helps with that but ultimately you’re solo. In my case at the end of every evening I head back to a room alone. Many times other peoples schedules will have them leaving at different times or even leaving the camino after a week. Not everyone can take the time off for the whole thing and many people do it in sections. If I’m being honesty (and again, I might as well be), at this stage I’ve learned more from the loneliness than anything else this trip.
I know that many couples and groups travel well together (Michele and I have been halfway around the world together and this is the first time we’ve done a big trip apart) and I have seen that numerous times this trip. Actually each couple I’ve spent time with, whether husband and wife, mother and daughter or just friends, have been remarkable together. I guess it depends on you. If you want to spend a lot of time with a person do the camino. If the person you need to spend a lot of time with is yourself, come alone. You’ll get to know yourself. That’s a promise.
Also, remember that the man making that promise once managed to burn himself on the small of his BACK with an iron.
When you’re alone you also get to choose where to go for dinner.
